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Arches 140 lb Hot Press Watercolor Paper has been my favorite all around paper for quite a few years. Most of my Portrait, Still Life, and Trompe l'Oeil (Fool the Eye) drawings are done on this paper.
It has enough tooth to hold a lot of charcoal or graphite for extremely dark values. With the right techniques, you can produce some very smooth textures. |
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Strathmore 300 Series Bristol Smooth is a great heavy weight paper that works best if your subject mainly consists of a very smooth texture. You won't be able to get as dark with this as some of the other papers that have more "tooth", but given the right subject it is my favorite choice.
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Strathmore 300 Series Bristol Vellum is the same quality heavy weight paper as the smooth, except the Vellum surface has more tooth and therefore can hold more of the medium. That means darker values are possible with this paper.
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The Strathmore 400 Series Recycled paper is the least expensive of the papers I use and recommend, which makes it great for practicing techniques. It's a lighter weight than the others, but is acid free and can be used for your finished drawings with no problem.
The reason I like the "Recycled" version of this paper is because the color is a brighter white than the regular version of this paper. These pads come in several different sizes and the one from this link is the largest. However, you can save even more money if you get a larger size and cut it in half to get two drawings out of one sheet. |
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I've been supplying my Live Drawing Workshop drawing students with Blu Tack for years. It's like a kneaded eraser but much more sticky. I use it mostly for cleaning charcoal or graphite from highlights and other areas I want to remain bright white.
I've tried other brands of Poster Putty but noticed that they can leave a residue on the paper that makes it difficult to achieve smooth textures. This is the only brand that doesn't have that issue. In my opinion, it doesn't replace a kneaded eraser because you can use those to drag around on your paper to lighten areas. Because of the stickiness of Blu Tack, it is used in more of a dabbing motion. |
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I use Drafting Tape to mask of areas of my drawing I want to remain white. Don't make the mistake of using "Masking Tape" because it will damage your paper when you try to remove it. I've even had some other brands of "Drafting" tape cause issues as well. This one is specially formulated with low tack adhesive for drafting and stationary use.
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I use these Nail Dotting Tools to create thin white lines or dots against a darker background by using the Indenting Technique. This has become an essential tool when I'm rendering realistic looking hair, fur, and other textures with small details.
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I use Frisket to mask areas of my drawing while I render the darker surrounding values or background. This is an essential product for creating incredibly clean, sharp edges on your subjects. This is normally used in watercolor and airbrush techniques but with the right paper, it works wonderfully with drawing media.
For drawing, it's extremely important to order the LOW TACK version to keep it from damaging the paper when it is removed. I also recommend you get the Matte option instead of the Clear. With Matte, you can draw the outline of your subject directly onto the Frisket backing to help you cut out the shapes more accurately. |
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In one of my video tutorials I talk about different ways of using Graphite Transfer Paper to help you get the basic proportions down on your paper accurately. This is the brand I used in the video.
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I use this Drawing Lamp in my studio and at my live drawing workshops. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to have good lighting when you draw!
It has six levels of light intensity and four color temperature settings. This allows for maximum contrast on your drawings, and if you're painting, the daylight setting (6000k) is essential for accurate colors. In every Live Drawing Workshop I conduct, I have numerous students ask where they can purchase this because it is built so well and has all the features you'll ever need. |
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If you suffer from back problems while drawing for long periods of time, this Kneeling Chair could help. This is one of the least expensive options I would consider. I've had quite a few of these through the year. This brand is my favorite because of the durability and the superior memory foam they use for the cushions.
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Used in both my studio and at Live Drawing Workshops, this is the best Electric Pencil Sharpener I've found to date. It even works on charcoal and carbon pencils. It sharpens many different sizes of pencils including the "fat" ones like the Primo Elite Grande Charcoal and the Kimberly 9xxb.
It contains dual helical cutter blades and the most powerful motor in the X-Acto brand. It's so well made, they offer a 10 year warranty! Quick tip... If you're sharpening a lot of charcoals, occasionally sharpen a graphite pencil in it to help clean and lubricate the blades. |
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This little inexpensive Hand Crank Sharpener takes large and small pencils and comes with a clamp for attaching to your desk or drawing table. The spring loaded face plate grabs the pencil and pulls it into the steel cutting cylinder. It can sharpen to a blunt point or super long and sharp.
I've had several of these available for students to use in my live drawing workshops for over five years, and they are all going strong. Just like with the Electric sharpener above, if you occasionally sharpen a graphite pencil it will keep the blades clean and lubricated for a better sharpening experience when you use it with charcoal or carbon. |
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A Light Box is a very handy tool to use while drawing for many different reasons. One of the lesser known ways to use it is to help you see more detail in the darker areas of a reference photo. If your reference photo is printed on photo paper and you place it over a bright light box, it will illuminate the darker areas allowing you to see detail you wouldn't normally see.
I use the one I'm featuring here. It's very well made and gets great reviews. |
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